California Central Coast Travel Guide

Guide to San Luis Obispo County Wine Country

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The southern San Luis Obispo County Wine Country is located south of the city, in the Edna Valley, Avila Valley, and Arroyo Grande. There are presently about 20 winery/vineyards, with about 3,000 acres under cultivation for wine grapes. The low-lying coastal valleys are extensively influenced by the flow of cool marine air, resulting in a long, slightly cool growing season. The soils are likewise influenced by ancient marine deposits. The climate and soils provide an excellent environment for producing grapes that result in ultra premium quality wines with intense and complex flavors. (Photos, courtesy of San Luis Obispo Vintners and Growers Association.)

The region's environment is conducive to the production of superior white wines, such as Chardonnay. In recent years other outstanding varietals have been successfully produced, including Pinot Noir, Syrah, Grenache, and white Rhone varieties such as Roussanne and Viognier. The Arroyo Grande vineyards are farther inland with less maritime influence. Here outstanding Zinfandels are produced.

(Note that wineries or winemakers may import grapes from other areas to blend with their own, or to produce other varietals which may complement their estate - home-grown - wines. Some winemakers don't even have their own vineyards but rather purchase all their grapes from elsewhere.)

Grapes have been grown and wines produced here for nearly 200 years, starting with the early Franciscan Missionaries. Modern commercial winemaking started in the late 1960s. One of the earliest and most successful wineries is Edna Valley Vineyards. Today the valley hosts a blend of wineries and vineyards, ranching from large corporate establishments to one-person shops. Many have tasting rooms which are open daily. Most are located along a network on two-lane country roads (map) with lovely scenery and a mountain backdrop.

Below are some recommendations from first-hand experiences:

• Edna Valley Vineyards. One of the earliest wineries in the area, Edna Valley always offers first-rate wines, particularly its Chardonnays. Located on Biddle Ranch Road, the very pretty tasting room and gift shop allows you to sip wine while looking out picture windows at a spectacular vista: a valley full of grape vines with a mountain backdrop.
• Saucelito Canyon Vineyard. The Greenough family purchased the Ditmas Ranch in 1974 and rescusitated its century-old Zinfandel vines. Outstanding, premium Zinfandels are now the focus of this winery. The new tasting room is across the street from Edna Valley. The Greenoughs are also noted for their hospitality. This writer and his family once enjoyed a private barrel tasting and tour at their vineyard in the hills of Arroyo Grande. Tip: Let your Saucelito Canyon Zinfandel sit for six months or more before opening. The results are great.
• Kelsey-See Canyon Vineyard. A fairly new winery, Kelsey-See Canyon's rustic tasting room is located in beautiful See Canyon in the midst of its renowned fruit orchards. Noted winemaker, Harold Osborne, can be counted on to produce a great Chardonnay every year as well as a fine selection of red wines. We also enjoy Dolores Kelsey's exceptional hospitality, as well as the peacocks running through the apple trees next to the tasting room.
• Claiborne and Churchill. This small family winery gets excellent results in several white wine varietals: Dry Riesling, Dry Gewurztraminer, Muscat, and Chardonnay. We particularly like their Riesling and Gewurztraminer. They also produce Pinot Noir, and recently we purchased an interesting Grenache. Located on Ca-227, their unusual tasting room is built out of bales of straw, a technique which is effective insulation as well as environmentally friendly.

Related Links:

• Listings of Wineries and Events - San Luis Obispo Vintners and Growers Association
• SLOVGA Wine Country Maps (good for self-guided tours)
• Guided Wine Tours (SLO County)

Paso Robles Wine Country surrounds the city of Paso Robles in northern San Luis Obispo County. The north county region lies inland, east of the coastal mountains which substantially limit the maritime influence: cool air works into the valleys only during the evenings. The environment is therefore quite different than the south county, with very warm and dry summers featuring warm fog-free days but cool nights. Winters are chilly with some freezing weather. The result is that the varietals grown here are quite different from the south county as well.

With a greater day-to-night temperature swing than any other California wine-growing region, distinct micro-climates, diverse soils and a long growing season, the Paso Robles are has outstanding conditions for producing premium and ultra premium wines. The hills and valleys west of Paso Robles ("Westside Paso Robles") have gorgeous scenery and exceptional growing conditions. The most remote and western wineries of this area, many of them small family wineries, are collectively known as the Far Out Wineries of Paso Robles, and they produce extraordinary red wines.

There are about 26,000 acres of wine grapes currently under cultivation in Paso Robles Wine Country. The number of vineyards/wineries has grown in recent years from 50 to about 100. Newcomers range from family and boutique wineries to international winemakers. Many have come because of the growing reputation of Westside Paso Robles. Red-wine grapes account for about 75% of the total grown. By far, the most common planted variety is Cabernet Sauvignon. Other widely planted varietals include Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Sauvignon Blanc. Like the south county, Rhone varietals have become quite popular - and successfully grown - in recent years, including Syrah, Viognier and Rousanne.

(Note that wineries or winemakers may import grapes from other areas to blend with their own, or to produce other varietals which may complement their estate - home-grown - wines. Some winemakers don't even have their own vineyards but rather purchase all their grapes from elsewhere.)

The remote and rural countryside Westside Paso Robles offers a wonderful experience even to visitors who don't drink wine. Two-lane country roads pass through hills and valleys with some of the finest scenery in California. Hillsides of grape vines blend with clusters of oak trees. The dense cover of oak along the roadsides often feel like a tunnel. The best route: from US-101 in Templeton, take Vineyard Drive west (crossing CA-46), then return to Paso Robles by taking Adelaida Road east. From Paso Robles, an excellent route is west on Adelaida Road, south on Vineyard Drive, then return east on Peachy Canyon Road. (Paso Robles Wine Country Map)

Numerous great events are held in Paso Robles Wine Country each year. The most notable is the Paso Robles Wine Festival, held every May. Most of the area wineries set up booths in the downtown park for tasting. There is also food and entertainment. Many of the wineries will also stage their own events during the weekend, including winemaker dinners and open houses.

Below are some recommendations from first-hand experiences:

• Le Cuvier. The winery of legendary Paso Robles winemaker, John Munch, Le Cuvier's wines can be counted on to be unique, quirky, and unlike anything else in the area. Unfortunately, due to the low quantities produced and the high demand, the winery is now member-only. Le Cuvier was easily the most interesting wine experience in Paso Robles.
• Dunning Vineyard. Intimate family winery on an early 20th century farm in a remote corner of the west side. Their excellent estate (home-grown) wines include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, Syrah, and Chardonnay. The Cabernet was outstanding. Also, family has converted 100-year old farmhouse into a bed and breakfast. Very beautiful place.
• Villicana Winery. The family winery of Alex and Monica Villicana produces tiny and often medal-winning vintages of estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Zinfandel which sell out fast.
• Nadeau Family Vintners. A micro-winery owned by Robert and Patrice Nadeau whose specialty is huge, mountain grown, old-vine Zinfandels. Also, a tiny amount of Rhone varietals. Expect good conversation and hospitality in their tasting room.
• Windward Vinyard. Tiny family winery which produces only Burgundian styled, estate Pinot Noir, an uncommon variety for Paso Robles. A tasting session entails several different years' vintages from the same vines. It is utttering fascinating to note the year to year differences in taste.
• Justin Vineyards and Winery. The most remote winery on the west side, and also the most opulent, Justin features beautiful gardens and tasting room, a small country inn and restaurant, a wine and cheese bar, and lots of wines. Its Isoceles blend (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon) is legendary. Caters to folks who like the finer things in life.
• Adelaida Cellars. A beautiful mountain-top tasting room, among hillsides of grapevines and nut trees. The winery specializes in estate-grown Pinot Noir, old vine Zinfandel and serious Cabernet Sauvignon. Excellent late-harvest wines. A beautiful place, and the wines are always first-rate.
• Carmody McKnight Estate Wines. Low-keyed tasting room is in a 141-year old converted farmhouse with a pretty lily pond out back. Their specialty is the often award-winning Meritage Cadenza blend (Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot). Owned by the Conway family, the hospitality here is always first-rate, especially from daughter, Kathleen Conway.
• Meridian Vineyards. A large winery located on the east side of Paso Robles, Meridian wines can be found in many supermarkets, very inexpensive, and always reliably good. They have an outstanding annual 4th of July celebration with barbeque, fireworks, and entertainment. Always a sellout, tickets must be purchased well in advance.
• Tobin James Cellars. Located on the east side, Tobin James' popular "Old West" tasting room often contends for "Best of Paso Robles". The wines are first-rate, too, especially their famous "Ballistic" Zinfandel and their "Liquid Love" dessert (late harvest) Zinfandel.

Related Links:

• Listings of Wineries and Events - Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance
• PRWCA Wine Country Maps (good for self-guided tours)     [Printable Map - a PDF file]
• Far Out Wineries of Paso Robles
• Guided Wine Tours (Paso Robles)
• The Paso Robles Wine Festival
• The 4th of July in Wine Country

Index to the California Central Coast Travel Guide

• California Central Coast Travel Guide Introduction
  
  
• Santa Barbara County Points of Interest
  
  
  • Santa Barbara County State Parks and Beaches
    
    
  • Santa Barbara County Spanish Missions
    
    
  • Santa Barbara County Wine Country
    
    
• San Luis Obispo County Points of Interest - (Part 1)  (Part 2)
  
  
  • San Luis Obispo County State Parks and Beaches
    
    
  • San Luis Obispo County Spanish Missions
    
    
  • San Luis Obispo County Wine Country
    
    
• Monterey County Points of Interest
  
  
  • Monterey County State Parks and Beaches
    
    
  • Monterey County Spanish Missions
    
    
  • Monterey County Wine Country