Pacific Coast Highway - California Coast

The elephant seal is the largest of all pinnipeds. Adult bulls can exceed two tons in weight and ten feet in length. Like many marine mammals, it was hunted to near extinction in the 19th century.

Until recently, the huge seals lived in isolated areas far away from humans. Then, amazingly, in 1990, they started colonizing the unspoiled beaches and coves just south of Point Piedras Blancas on the California coast. Their chosen location is just off of the Pacific Coast Highway (California Highway 1), a few miles north of the famous Hearst Castle at San Simeon. Tourists may simply pull off the road into a parking lot, take a short walk, and observe hundreds and sometimes thousands of elephant seals. It is a sight one would normally associate with some exotic locale in a National Geographic.

The photo, above left, is taken from an open beach adjacent to the south parking lot. Note in the closeup, right, the huge snout which is the trademark of the elephant seal.

From the north parking lot, an informal trail heads north along the lovely low bluffs. The walking is easy and very pleasant. The grass and herbal plants such as mustard and fennel provide a delightful aroma mixed with the smell of the sea. It is private property but the landowner has granted visitors a "right to pass" and has installed an easy to climb gate. (Check on the current posting before entering the property.) Here lonely coves and pocket beaches grace the coast. The old Point Piedras Blancas lighthouse adds to the scenery (left edge of photo at left, closeup right). And the seals are almost everywhere.

The numbers of elephant seals were smaller in the coves than on the open beach. As many of these seals appeared to also be substantially larger, we thought they might be the senior bulls keeping to themselves. Note in the photo, left, the two bulls who are mock fighting. During breeding season (December through February) the large, dominant bulls will fight for control of the harems.

At this time of year (July), all of the seals at Piedras Blancas are males. The females head up to Alaska to give birth to, and nurse, their pups. They all return in the fall and restart their annual cycle.

The photo, right, shows a huge bull surfacing and letting forth his battle cry. This was by far and away the largest seal we observed. It was bigger by half than any of the others. Perhaps he was the senior bull for the whole colony.

The call of the elephant seal is actually rather humorous. It sounds exactly like nonstop human belching!

It is not clear why these reclusive creatures would suddenly take residence in a place where hordes of people can readily approach them. Possibly it is the unspoiled nature of this section of coast. The shore has been declared a wildlife refuge from south of San Francisco to Cambria. Human usage of the shore and offshore areas is strictly limited. Perhaps they come because people are now enlightened enough to enjoy watching them and otherwise leave them alone.

Volunteers from a group known as the Friends of the Elephant Seals are present most of the time to answer visitors' questions. Their other role is to keep an eye on the seals and make sure no humans bother them.

At a time when our society faces hard issues such as the rapid pace of development and pollution, a wildlife success story is extremely heartening. If you come here, please just observe the seals from a safe distance, and do not dusturb them in any way!